Delta Robot Completed : Jeden

My neon yellow filament came in the mail finally! So last Saturday I monopolized the 3D printer at SYN Shop and made six new florescent arms to replace the grey and nasty transparent ones on my delta prototype. I also recut the robot’s base using some 1/4 inch acrylic, complete with name, signature, and project title etched along the edges. With the prototype upgraded, Jeden is now the first official addition to Light Play… and he’s a looker :

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Having figured all that out… it’s time to do the next step: Make about a hundred more. Alas, I am here at the hackerspace hoarding the Replicator 2, this time during off hours so I don’t get the reputation of an equipment hog. So far I’ve printed another set of parts and assembled a second robot making use of some old donated servos. I’m testing it out now to see if I can get it to play nicely with Jeden.

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So far, it looks like 0 and 180 are opposite of what I anticipated… meaning the arms will go in the opposite direction they are suppose to when I use my GUI. =[ I could just flip the servos around… and the mounting board…. but I don’t feel like unscrewing everything right now. Besides, I ran into another problem : since these servos were donated, I lack the correct servo horns to bridge my paddle arms to the gear shaft. I tried printing a close proximity that fit tightly (and I mean really tight) onto the gear shaft… but it seems that without the matching teeth to grip onto it… the thing is destined to slip no matter what. Too bad the gear teeth are too small a resolution to print, otherwise I’d have added them in.

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Though I have two assembled robots… only one is in working condition as of today. I just put in an order for some more shiny new servos, so they’ll be here in time and will come with their appropriate horns. Until then… print. Print. Print. Print.

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Oh yeah… Krux gets to name Jeden’s twin. more to come =]

 

3D Printed Delta Prototype : Jeden

The last working delta robot I created was completed last August, nearly six months ago. I didn’t have access to a metal shop, so I relied on my dremel to do all the work and because of this it was made entirely out of hangers and tupperware. I hacked a multitude of plastic household objects and to-go boxes into actual moving robots… which was how I had expected to create the whole army of such deltas. That is until I met everyone at the budding hackerspace last summer and learned that 3D printers are now desktop sized.

I’ve come a long way since then. Now having figured out how to make 3D models of the parts I need, I’m printing my robots like a more civilized maker. I’ve also departed from relying on hobby parts for the joints due to my friend Mark’s ingenious idea to implement ball bearings into the design. This allows the robot to be free of heinous amounts of nuts and screws as well as any additional bought items.

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Making use of the now open and booming SYN Shop, I ordered my own grey and optic yellow PLA to use on their delicious Replicator 2. If you are in need of PLA and want more color options than the Makerbot store has to offer, I suggest looking at this website. At $33 a kilogram I give them a thumbs up : JustPLA.com

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Over the period of this week my model has evolved radically… but I’ve finally gotten each piece finalized to the point that I can assemble a fully functional delta robot. The first of such I completed just last night. It isn’t perfect yet… but that’s ok. It feels good to be making progress on this project again… and to have a new delta in the family. It’s name is ‘Jeden’, after the Polish word for ‘one’. =]

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Theremin Goggles

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Blinking, fading, and color changing lights are a standard for eye catching goggles. This being said, I decided to change it up a bit and make a set that would engage the wearer in the production of sound.

As always I wanted my goggles to be interactive. When it comes to audio, I figured there was no better way to achieve this than with some sort of theremin which would invoke hand waving and finger wiggling from the wearer and anyone near by. Now, I realize that traditional theremins are quite complex in their inner workings and tend to run quite large, so I poked around the internet until I found this simplified optical theremin that requires a hand full of basic components and two 555 timers.This particular design also creates a very unique, annoying sound which in this application is perfect! Here is the link to the circuit I used : Easy Pocket Photo Theremin.

In regards to appearance, I wanted this pair to have a beat up electronic feel bordering on steam punk, so I gathered parts of mismatched metal types (copper, chrome, gold, brass).

This is the first time I used a different model of goggle to start with. They have roughly the same dimensions as my usual set but have larger vents on the sides with some nifty plastic removable inserts which allowed me to wrap metallic rubber chord around the edge of the goggles to create this unique ‘grip’ effect. :

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Lenses? Not this time! I installed a speaker and volume knob in the eye pieces. The volume knob is attached to a potentiometer which is held in place by some laser-cut acrylic fitted to the inside of the goggle. :

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I created a similar piece to hold the speaker in place. :

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The snazzy bits over the speaker were made from some random metal pieces I found at a craft store. I have no idea what their intended purpose is but they work as speaker grills quite well when stitched together. :

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The pitch and octave fluctuate based on the amount of light the photo sensors are receiving, so to ‘play’ the goggles some interaction is required. I felt that the most entertaining place to install the photo cells would be on the sides over the vents so that the wearer would have to wave their hands around their head to effect the sound. :

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Each photo resistor has its own slider, which effects the total amount of resistance and thus changes the pitch of the sound. :

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All of these elements are attached to this snazzy board which I designed in Eagle with some help from Krux… :

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I connected all the wires by attaching female terminals to their ends, then plugged them onto the male pins seen above. This is the same method I used with the Othello Goggles. It seems to hold up pretty well so far on both pairs. :

Completed, I think they are a very snazzy looking accessory :

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Thank you to everyone who helped me along the way, and a huge shout out to SYN Shop for having the equipment necessary to make these. ❤

 

Reactor Goggles

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I was searching through DIY project ideas when I found an instructable on how to make an Arc Reactor from misc plastic pieces (Make an Iron Man Arc Reactor). The coiled wire and blue lights were so appealing to look at that I decided to give the new laser cutter down at the hackerspace a try and make a set of lenses that looked like mini ‘reactors’.

My color scheme this time was going to be black and neon yellow (my favorite color) which I thought the blue LEDs would complement quite nicely….

It took no time to design the shapes for the lenses in illustrator and manifest the acrylic into two layers that once stacked, gave some depth to the radial design:

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In itself this looked pretty cool but I still needed to wrap magnet wire around the thin sections of the left most lens. I also needed to come up with a circular disk that would wedge behind these neatly shaped lenses and hold six LEDs in place. This took some trial and error to achieve the snug fit :

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The fun part as always (I say this with heaps of sarcasm) was doing the stitching on the leather straps. The thread I found was a nice brilliant neon but it was nylon, which was a paint to work with as it snagged on everything and didn’t like to hold a knot. To work around this I added a dot of super glue to every tied end and waxed the thread with a cheap candle to prevent the fine fibers from snagging on my cuticles while I sewed. :

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With the leather work finished and the lenses/LED holders cut, it was time to design the schematic and PCB. I did the majority of the schematic on my own without Jeff’s usual help. The chip installed is again an ATTiny 4313.  :

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Etching and drilling the board was the last step I completed before my surgery which put me in the hospital for two weeks at the end of January, so the project has actually been shelved for quite a while. It felt good however to have something to come back to that was already well underway once I was done recovering.

I spent this weekend sizing and soldering the wire to all the LEDs and buttons. :

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I made sure I soldered the correct LEDs to each pin by giving the wires super big idiot proof labels :

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…The two push buttons on the side to control the speed and mode of the LEDs :

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With that the exterior was pretty much complete and looking snazzy :

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Prior to going in for surgery I had spoken to my friend Justin from SYN Shop about what I wanted the LEDs to do. He offered to write me some code that would add some variety to the way they lit up. In addition he taught me how to upload the code he wrote using the Arduino sketch to the ATTiny 4313 board I had installed on my PCB! -Really neat thing to know as I am new to using other micro controllers and still have my arduino water-wings on.

Sadly, when I eventually was ready to upload Justin’s Arduino code onto the ATTiny chip, this cool trick didn’t work like it was supposed to. For some reason when the 4313 board was selected the code would not compile. So… I brought the goggles and my problem with me to the hackerspace this Saturday and did some troubleshooting with my friend Mark, who is the biggest electronics wiz I know. There, over many hours of getting distracted by our other friends, we slowly worked out the bugs. We were able to use a force command to make the arduino upload the code to the ATTiny 2313 version of the board (because it is ultimately the same chip as the 4313 but with half the memory) which worked:

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In the end we got the thing doing going perfectly. The different modes are extremely cool looking. Now admire the sexy :

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GQ Mark :IMG_1240

…………….. John :IMG_1256

goofball Jeff :IMG_1263

and unamused Aakin :IMG_1259

A HUGE thank you to Justin (Gizmaniac) who wrote my snazzy code and taught me how to upload arduino sketches to alternate boards, Mark (circuit monkey) who helped me work out the various bugs in the code and wiring, and to Jeff (Krux) for giving me creative advice as well as access to everything I could possibly need to make all these awesome things <3. This pair of goggles is that much better because you’ve all had a part in their creation!